Hace poco tuvimos ocasión de escucharle en el evento organizado por la D.O. Bizkaiko Txakolina en el Hotel Carlton de Bilbao.
Aquí un resumen de lo catado en Mendibile:
Written by Ferran Centelles
20 Mar 2018
20 Mar 2018
If you still think Txakoli is no more than a light, refreshing, simple, lightly fizzy wine to be drunk young when touring Basque country, I am sure you will be surprised if you keep reading.
The image described above might be true for some of the Getariako Txakolina produced in the surroundings of San Sebastian (Donosti), the gastronomic capital of Spain within the province of Guipúzcoa. The Getariako wines are almost like traditional Vinho Verde – low alcohol, a touch of sparkle and an early harvest to retain green flavours.
However, in this article I taste and describe another Txakoli appellation, Bizkaiko Txakolina, wines grown in the province of Vizcaya, whose capital is Bilbao. The wines reminded me forcefully of those of Galicia, with their much longer ripening season than that of Getariako.
The appellation was created in 1994, and since then annual production has gradually increased from 20,000 to almost 2 million litres. Today they are 40 wineries.
A third Txakoli appellation encompasses the wines of Álava province; Arabako Txakolina is the most recent appellation of Basque country. Its wines follow the Bizkaiko Txakolina style.
Basque country is a singular corner of Spain. The Basques have their own language, Euskera. They practise their own traditional sports such as harri jasoketa (throwing heavy stones dug from local quarries), aizkolari (cutting off huge logs with an axe) or pelota vasca (a series of ball games).
Furthermore, in the region, eating is not just feeding; it is a major event, almost an art. Honestly, I never had more conversations about food, products, fishing or mushroom hunting than in Basque country.
The region is also very unusual in terms of climate. The landscape is very green, with an intense influence from the cold Atlantic ocean. It is very rainy with an annual average rainfall of 1400 mm (55 in) per year, almost triple that of Rioja only an hour’s drive south across the mountains. The majority of the vineyards are on gentle slopes. The region is quite cold, with a mean temperature during the growing season (April to September) of 17 ºC (62.6 ºF). As a result, this is a perfect environment for white wine grape varieties.
In terms of viticulture, the 400 hectares (990 acres) of Bizkaiko Txakolina have nothing to do with the rest of Spain. The vineyards are oriented in search of the morning rays in order to avoid water retention and damp conditions. Cover crops are the norm as they dry the vineyards, avoid erosion and compete with the vines for excess water.
Canopy management is designed to maximise sun exposure and avoid shading in order to reduce the pressure of fungal disease (downy mildew is very problematic, especially in damp summers). The traditional overhead vine-training system known as parrales coexists with vertical trellis systems. Conversely, the last few vintages have been exceptionally dry with dry winds know locally as Zoe having an effect. Unusually, powdery mildew attacks have been reported.
The soils are normally quite rich in organic matter with the parent rock being calcareous. Hence, good rootstock selection and minimising fertilisers are mandatory to achieve balanced vineyards and quality-oriented grapes.
Viticultural practices are expensive; an intense monitoring of the grapes and many sprayings are necessary.
Viticultural practices are expensive; an intense monitoring of the grapes and many sprayings are necessary.
As a consequence, grape prices are as high as €1,30 (£1.15/$1.60) a kilo. Consequently, mass-market wines are very rare and consumers are ready to pay the €8 to €12 that a bottle of Txakoli may cost.
With such climatic conditions it is quite easy to understand why the majority of wines here are light whites with moderate alcohol levels and intense green, citrus and herbal flavours. Currently 98% of the wines from the appellation are whites.
The wines have to be based on at least 85% of local grapes bearing Basque names.
The rather neutral but exceptionally vivid Hondarribi Zuri (Courbu Blanc) is the most planted white grape. It is followed by Hondarribi Zuri Zerratia (Petit Courbu), also known simply as Hondarribi Zerratia (zuri means ‘white’), a variety starting to show its potential.
Bodega Gorka Izagirre with their remarkable G22 and 42 by Eneko Atxa are definitely worthy of note (see also Julia’s report of her visit to this producer in 2013 in Recuperating Txakoli). The minor grapes are Mune Mahatsa (Folle Blanche, literally ‘the grape from the margins’, as it used to be planted on the edges of vineyards), Izkiriota Tipia (Petit Manseng), Izkiriota or Izkiriota Handia (Gros Manseng), Riesling, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. (All these varieties seem to have several spelling variants too.)
Such red wines as are produced in the appellation are mainly based on the rather austere, wild and vibrant Hondarribi Beltza, although some Pinot Noir might be found as an experimental planting showing encouraging results (take a look at the Eklipse wine by Itsasmendi).
Winemaking techniques have been modernised since the 1990s. Stainless steel is the norm and fermentation temperatures are perfectly controlled in order to keep freshness and enhance flavour as far as possible.
If you take a quick look through my 40 tasting notes you will see I have not used adjectives such as bubbly, sparkling, effervescent or fizzy. All the wines presented for my blind tasting were totally still. The majority showed correct winemaking standards, and had a vivid, easy-drinking quality. In the young wines flight the Señorío de Otxaran and Gorka Izagirre examples both showed a superior level of intensity, depth and vibrancy.
However, the winemaking trend is to keep young wine on the fine lees, with the consequent gain in texture and depth. It seems to me like a very good idea, as the flight of lees-aged wines obtained the best rating and demonstrated unusual consistency. Two wines excelled: the Itsasmendi 7 in magnum and the G22 confirmed how good and promising a Txakoli might be.
Some producers are offering oaked versions, usually rather too obviously so, not least because Hondarribi Zuri is a delicate grape that can easily be overwhelmed. Nevertheless, Bodegas Itsasmendi presented Artizar, an oaked wine very nicely made that has demonstrated an outstanding ageing capacity, nothing less than four or five years of lovely maturity.
Sweet wines are still a rarity, although they seem a great idea. The potential balance between sweetness and acidity they offer reminds me of some world-class late-harvest wines. Urezti was a lovely, surprising wine.
Sweet wines are still a rarity, although they seem a great idea. The potential balance between sweetness and acidity they offer reminds me of some world-class late-harvest wines. Urezti was a lovely, surprising wine.
I really see Txakoli having a great potential and being able to produce distinct wines. The future is promising but they still have room to progress, specially in the following areas:
• Experimentation with local grapes as single-varietal wines are a great way forward. Wines made from 100% of any of Hondaribbi Zuri, Hondarribi Beltza or Hondarribi Zerratia are permitted.
• I would love to see more aged wines, without necessarily oak ageing. The 2012 and 2013 in my tasting really shone.
• I would suggest reducing the oak in some of the barrel-aged wines.
• Most of the wines are single-vineyard or at least single-estate, but this is rarely seen on the label.
• I would love to see more aged wines, without necessarily oak ageing. The 2012 and 2013 in my tasting really shone.
• I would suggest reducing the oak in some of the barrel-aged wines.
• Most of the wines are single-vineyard or at least single-estate, but this is rarely seen on the label.
As you may imagine, the Consejo Regulador is very small, employing just two people. Luckily Antxon Txapartegi, the technical director, was kind enough to pre-select 40 out of 80 wines presented, and put all the wines in suitable flights. He also looked after the service in the best way possible to guarantee a fair blind tasting. I am grateful for it. The tasting was undertaken in the Consejo’s headquarters, an authentic and beautiful Basque country house, in November 2017.
The following 40 tasting notes are grouped by style and then in the order tasted but you can change the order within the groups.
YOUNG, STAINLESS-STEEL-FERMENTED WHITES
• Magalarte Lezama 2016 Bizkaiko Txakolina 16 /20
95% Hondarribi Zuri and Hondarribi Zerratia, with 5% Riesling and Mune Mahatsa. Vineyards are located on south-facing slopes in Valle del Txorierri, in the Lezama municipality. Cold maceration and pressing under inert atmosphere. Production of 50,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. Very clean and refreshing on the nose showing green apple, lime and green pineapple. It is not complex but has a pleasurable crispness and vivacity. Well-made, simple and easy-going bottle. (FC)
12%
Drink 2017-2019
95% Hondarribi Zuri and Hondarribi Zerratia, with 5% Riesling and Mune Mahatsa. Vineyards are located on south-facing slopes in Valle del Txorierri, in the Lezama municipality. Cold maceration and pressing under inert atmosphere. Production of 50,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. Very clean and refreshing on the nose showing green apple, lime and green pineapple. It is not complex but has a pleasurable crispness and vivacity. Well-made, simple and easy-going bottle. (FC)
12%
Drink 2017-2019
• Gorka Izagirre 2016 Bizkaiko Txakolina 16,5 /20
A blend of Hondarribi Zuri and Hondarribi Zerratia, in equal shares. Vines, planted in Larrabetzu municipality, are between 8 and 20 years old and yields are around 7,000 kg/ha. Fermentation in stainless steel. 150,000 bottles produced.
Tasted blind. The nose is riper than the average Txakoli, it shows quince notes, ripe apple and pear drops. It is really pure and steely with a touch of creaminess. Expressive and superior Txakoli. The 2012 was a wine of the week in 2013. (FC)
12.5%
Drink 2016-2018
A blend of Hondarribi Zuri and Hondarribi Zerratia, in equal shares. Vines, planted in Larrabetzu municipality, are between 8 and 20 years old and yields are around 7,000 kg/ha. Fermentation in stainless steel. 150,000 bottles produced.
Tasted blind. The nose is riper than the average Txakoli, it shows quince notes, ripe apple and pear drops. It is really pure and steely with a touch of creaminess. Expressive and superior Txakoli. The 2012 was a wine of the week in 2013. (FC)
12.5%
Drink 2016-2018
• Basque Group of Txakoli Winemakers, Maddy Txakolí 2015 Bizkaiko Txakolina 15 /20
85% blend of Hondarribi Zuri and Hondarribi Zerratia; remainder includes a small percentage of Riesling. Vines grown on south-facing slopes with shallow soils at 200 m elevation above sea level. Fermented in stainless-steel tanks. Production up to 10,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. Very acidic and green, it is rather watery and herbaceous. Archetypal green Txakoli. Very refreshing but simple. Slightly angular on the palate. (FC)
12%
Drink 2015-2019
85% blend of Hondarribi Zuri and Hondarribi Zerratia; remainder includes a small percentage of Riesling. Vines grown on south-facing slopes with shallow soils at 200 m elevation above sea level. Fermented in stainless-steel tanks. Production up to 10,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. Very acidic and green, it is rather watery and herbaceous. Archetypal green Txakoli. Very refreshing but simple. Slightly angular on the palate. (FC)
12%
Drink 2015-2019
• Bikandi 2016 Bizkaiko Txakolina 15,5 /20
85% Hondarribi Zuri and 15% Riesling and Chardonnay. Bikandi is located in the foothills of the Amboto Mountain, in Durango municipality. Vineyards are at 150 m elevation on clay-loam soils, facing north west. Moderate production of 30,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. Well-made, clean and very steely on the nose. It shows candied lemon, fennel and green apples. It is very refreshing and vivid and it keeps a good balance. It is not particularly concentrated, however it is very easy to drink. (FC)
12%
Drink 2016-2019
85% Hondarribi Zuri and 15% Riesling and Chardonnay. Bikandi is located in the foothills of the Amboto Mountain, in Durango municipality. Vineyards are at 150 m elevation on clay-loam soils, facing north west. Moderate production of 30,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. Well-made, clean and very steely on the nose. It shows candied lemon, fennel and green apples. It is very refreshing and vivid and it keeps a good balance. It is not particularly concentrated, however it is very easy to drink. (FC)
12%
Drink 2016-2019
• Uriarte 2016 Bizkaiko Txakolina 15,5 /20
A blend of 85% Hondarribi Zuri and 15% Mune Mahatsa grown at 100 m elevation, south-west exposure. Production of 80,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. It is a very easy-going bottle with restrained acidity for a Txakoli wine. Clean, fresh, stony and green expression. A light, pleasant and crisp wine. (FC)
12%
Drink 2016-2019
A blend of 85% Hondarribi Zuri and 15% Mune Mahatsa grown at 100 m elevation, south-west exposure. Production of 80,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. It is a very easy-going bottle with restrained acidity for a Txakoli wine. Clean, fresh, stony and green expression. A light, pleasant and crisp wine. (FC)
12%
Drink 2016-2019
• Txabarri, Extra 2016 Bizkaiko Txakolina 16 /20
85% Hondarribi Zuri and 15% minority varieties including Riesling and Chardonnay. Vines facing southwest at 250 m above sea level. Fermented in stainless steel. Moderate production of 30,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. This wine has a perfect combination between creaminess and nerve, lovely texture followed by a lemony sensation. It is quite flavourful, showing fennel, grass, herbs and mineral expression. Without doubt, this is a cool-climate wine in a good shape. (FC)
12%
Drink 2016-2019
85% Hondarribi Zuri and 15% minority varieties including Riesling and Chardonnay. Vines facing southwest at 250 m above sea level. Fermented in stainless steel. Moderate production of 30,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. This wine has a perfect combination between creaminess and nerve, lovely texture followed by a lemony sensation. It is quite flavourful, showing fennel, grass, herbs and mineral expression. Without doubt, this is a cool-climate wine in a good shape. (FC)
12%
Drink 2016-2019
• Berroja, Aguirrebeko 2016 Bizkaiko Txakolina 15,5 /20
Mainly Hondarribi Zuri with Riesling and Mune Mahatsa. Vineyards are located in Muxika within the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve, southern exposure. Each variety was vinified separately in stainless-steel tanks. Lightly fined and filtered. Production of 80,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. This is a sharp wine; the acidity is very high and lemony. The wine has lots of green-related aromas such as pine, lime, lemon and grass. It is shapeless because of the sourness but extremely refreshing. (FC)
12%
Drink 2016-2019
Mainly Hondarribi Zuri with Riesling and Mune Mahatsa. Vineyards are located in Muxika within the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve, southern exposure. Each variety was vinified separately in stainless-steel tanks. Lightly fined and filtered. Production of 80,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. This is a sharp wine; the acidity is very high and lemony. The wine has lots of green-related aromas such as pine, lime, lemon and grass. It is shapeless because of the sourness but extremely refreshing. (FC)
12%
Drink 2016-2019
• Magalarte Lezama, Ieup! 2016 Bizkaiko Txakolina 15,5 /20
A varietal Hondarribi Zuri, from a single vineyard in Lezama municipality. Hand-harvested grapes grown at 90 m elevation. Pre-fermentation cold maceration and pneumatic pressing under inert atmosphere. Production up to 10,000 bottles .
Tasted blind. It is an extremely youthful wine. It tastes almost as if it is right out of the fermentation tank. It is nervous and lemony; it shows lime and green quince aromas and has a penetrating salty acidity. It is a light and refreshing wine. (FC)
12%
Drink 2016-2019
A varietal Hondarribi Zuri, from a single vineyard in Lezama municipality. Hand-harvested grapes grown at 90 m elevation. Pre-fermentation cold maceration and pneumatic pressing under inert atmosphere. Production up to 10,000 bottles .
Tasted blind. It is an extremely youthful wine. It tastes almost as if it is right out of the fermentation tank. It is nervous and lemony; it shows lime and green quince aromas and has a penetrating salty acidity. It is a light and refreshing wine. (FC)
12%
Drink 2016-2019
• Munetaberri 2016 Bizkaiko Txakolina 15 /20
100% Hondarribi Zuri. Grapes from a single vineyard on the Arraiz Mountain at 100 m elevation, eastern exposure. 50,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. The wine is easy, watery and simple. Slightly neutral compared with the rest of Bizkaiko Txakolina wines. Uncomplicated wine, thin, light and refreshing. (FC)
13%
Drink 2016-2019
100% Hondarribi Zuri. Grapes from a single vineyard on the Arraiz Mountain at 100 m elevation, eastern exposure. 50,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. The wine is easy, watery and simple. Slightly neutral compared with the rest of Bizkaiko Txakolina wines. Uncomplicated wine, thin, light and refreshing. (FC)
13%
Drink 2016-2019
• Garkalde 2016 Bizkaiko Txakolina 15,5 /20
80% Hondarribi Zuri and 20% Mune Mahatsa. Family-run winery established in 2002. Vines are at 80 m above sea level in the Goitioltza district, one of the most traditional production areas. 12,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. This wine is technically perfect, clean and fluid. It shows pine, citrus and steely character. The palate is a bit abrupt, with a remarkable green and bitter sensation, although the wine still keeps its harmony. Textbook Bizkaiko Txakolina. (FC)
12%
Drink 2016-2019
80% Hondarribi Zuri and 20% Mune Mahatsa. Family-run winery established in 2002. Vines are at 80 m above sea level in the Goitioltza district, one of the most traditional production areas. 12,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. This wine is technically perfect, clean and fluid. It shows pine, citrus and steely character. The palate is a bit abrupt, with a remarkable green and bitter sensation, although the wine still keeps its harmony. Textbook Bizkaiko Txakolina. (FC)
12%
Drink 2016-2019
• Bikandi, Mikeldi 2016 Bizkaiko Txakolina 15,5 /20
85% Hondarribi Zuri and a 15% blend of Riesling and Chardonnay, from Durango municipality. Vines grown at 200 m elevation, north-west exposure. Moderate production of 30,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. This is a very clean and lightweight wine; it is refreshing, uncomplicated and quite fragrant for a Txakoli. It shows green fruits, pear drops, green melon and a touch of dill. It is a long, cold wave hitting the palate. (FC)
12%
Drink 2016-2019
85% Hondarribi Zuri and a 15% blend of Riesling and Chardonnay, from Durango municipality. Vines grown at 200 m elevation, north-west exposure. Moderate production of 30,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. This is a very clean and lightweight wine; it is refreshing, uncomplicated and quite fragrant for a Txakoli. It shows green fruits, pear drops, green melon and a touch of dill. It is a long, cold wave hitting the palate. (FC)
12%
Drink 2016-2019
• Magalarte Zamudio 2016 Bizkaiko Txakolina 15,5 /20
85% Hondarribi Zuri and 15% Mune Mahatsa and Petit Manseng. This property has a winemaking tradition since the mid 19th century, inherited from parents to children for five generations. The vineyards are in Lezama and Zamudio municipalities. 60,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. This is a refreshing, green and bright Txakoli. It has a voluminous texture with extract and balance. Quite commendable compared with the rest of the flight. It is well built despite its penetrating acidity. Lots of pleasure and attractive candied-lemon touch at the back palate. (FC)
12%
Drink 2016-2019
85% Hondarribi Zuri and 15% Mune Mahatsa and Petit Manseng. This property has a winemaking tradition since the mid 19th century, inherited from parents to children for five generations. The vineyards are in Lezama and Zamudio municipalities. 60,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. This is a refreshing, green and bright Txakoli. It has a voluminous texture with extract and balance. Quite commendable compared with the rest of the flight. It is well built despite its penetrating acidity. Lots of pleasure and attractive candied-lemon touch at the back palate. (FC)
12%
Drink 2016-2019
• Butroi 2016 Bizkaiko Txakolina 15,5 /20
Vineyards are distributed between Gatika, Zamudio, Lezama and Larrabetzu municipalities. Mainly Hondarribi Zuri. Fermentation in stainless-steel tanks.
Tasted blind. This is a youngish and joyful wine. It is well made displaying green apple, lime zest and quince. Uncomplicated and fruit driven. Not particularly long but still nice and pleasurable. Pure expression of Txakoli. (FC)
13%
Drink 2016-2019
Vineyards are distributed between Gatika, Zamudio, Lezama and Larrabetzu municipalities. Mainly Hondarribi Zuri. Fermentation in stainless-steel tanks.
Tasted blind. This is a youngish and joyful wine. It is well made displaying green apple, lime zest and quince. Uncomplicated and fruit driven. Not particularly long but still nice and pleasurable. Pure expression of Txakoli. (FC)
13%
Drink 2016-2019
• Butroi, Etxebarria 2016 Bizkaiko Txakolina 16 /20
Vineyards are distributed between Gatika, Zamudio, Lezama and Larrabetzu municipalities. Mainly Hondarribi Zuri. Fermentation is carried out in stainless-steel tanks.
Tasted blind. This is a well-made wine consistent with this flight of young Txakolis, very vivid and refreshing showing citrus and a delicate touch of white flowers. Quite classy within the Txakoli range. (FC)
12.5%
Drink 2016-2019
Vineyards are distributed between Gatika, Zamudio, Lezama and Larrabetzu municipalities. Mainly Hondarribi Zuri. Fermentation is carried out in stainless-steel tanks.
Tasted blind. This is a well-made wine consistent with this flight of young Txakolis, very vivid and refreshing showing citrus and a delicate touch of white flowers. Quite classy within the Txakoli range. (FC)
12.5%
Drink 2016-2019
• Butroi, Oletxe 2016 Bizkaiko Txakolina 15,5 /20
Vineyards are distributed between Gatika, Zamudio, Lezama and Larrabetzu municipalities. Mainly Hondarribi Zuri. Fermentation took place in stainless-steel tanks.
Tasted blind. This is youthful and very vivid Txakoli, very light and herbal with crunchy acidity and lots of green-related flavours. It is a sharp-edged wine although not particularly long. (FC)
12.5%
Drink 2016-2019
Vineyards are distributed between Gatika, Zamudio, Lezama and Larrabetzu municipalities. Mainly Hondarribi Zuri. Fermentation took place in stainless-steel tanks.
Tasted blind. This is youthful and very vivid Txakoli, very light and herbal with crunchy acidity and lots of green-related flavours. It is a sharp-edged wine although not particularly long. (FC)
12.5%
Drink 2016-2019
• Butroi Sasine 2016 Bizkaiko Txakolina 15,5 /20
Vineyards are distributed between Gatika, Zamudio, Lezama and Larrabetzu municipalities. Mainly Hondarribi Zuri. Fermented in stainless-steel tanks.
Tasted blind. This is a textbook youthful Txakoli; refreshing, vivid, intense, steely, green and driven by penetrating acidity. It is joyful and easy to drink with a faultless green-apple flavour. (FC)
12.5%
Drink 2016-2019
Vineyards are distributed between Gatika, Zamudio, Lezama and Larrabetzu municipalities. Mainly Hondarribi Zuri. Fermented in stainless-steel tanks.
Tasted blind. This is a textbook youthful Txakoli; refreshing, vivid, intense, steely, green and driven by penetrating acidity. It is joyful and easy to drink with a faultless green-apple flavour. (FC)
12.5%
Drink 2016-2019
• Harizpe 2016 Bizkaiko Txakolina 15,5 /20
85% Hondarribi Zuri and 15% Riesling. Modern winery inaugurated in 2010. Vineyards were planted facing east at 100 m elevation in Ondarroa municipality. Moderate production of 10,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. Very well-made wine with a stony and steely character. It has a rounded profile with greater texture compared with the average young Bizkaiko Txakolina wines. Very lemony and green but keeping a good shape and a pleasurable character. (FC)
12.5%
Drink 2016-2019
85% Hondarribi Zuri and 15% Riesling. Modern winery inaugurated in 2010. Vineyards were planted facing east at 100 m elevation in Ondarroa municipality. Moderate production of 10,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. Very well-made wine with a stony and steely character. It has a rounded profile with greater texture compared with the average young Bizkaiko Txakolina wines. Very lemony and green but keeping a good shape and a pleasurable character. (FC)
12.5%
Drink 2016-2019
• Virgen de Lorea, Aretxaga 2016 Bizkaiko Txakolina 14,5 /20
85% Hondarribi Zuri, the rest is a blend of Riesling and Mune Mahatsa. 90,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. The wine is tight and light with a mellowed acidity. The aromas are based on green notes such as cider, pear and citrus peel. The wine lacks a bit of definition, it is slightly angular. (FC)
12.5%
Drink 2016-2017
85% Hondarribi Zuri, the rest is a blend of Riesling and Mune Mahatsa. 90,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. The wine is tight and light with a mellowed acidity. The aromas are based on green notes such as cider, pear and citrus peel. The wine lacks a bit of definition, it is slightly angular. (FC)
12.5%
Drink 2016-2017
• Elizalde, Mendraka 2016 Bizkaiko Txakolina 14,5 /20
90% Hondarribi Zerratia and 10% Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc. Vines are at 350 m elevation in Elorrio municipality. Production of 300,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. The wine shows a touch of nail varnish, green apple and olive leaf. The acidity is high and slightly disjointed. It is a green, tight and nervous wine. (FC)
12.5%
Drink 2016-2017
90% Hondarribi Zerratia and 10% Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc. Vines are at 350 m elevation in Elorrio municipality. Production of 300,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. The wine shows a touch of nail varnish, green apple and olive leaf. The acidity is high and slightly disjointed. It is a green, tight and nervous wine. (FC)
12.5%
Drink 2016-2017
• Virgen de Lorea, Señorío de Otxaran 2016 Bizkaiko Txakolina 16,5 /20
85% Hondarribi Zuri, the rest a blend of Riesling and Mune Mahatsa. Free-run juice from selected grapes is used to produce this Txakoli. Vineyards are at 200 m above sea level. Moderate production up to 20,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. The wine is quite attractive on the nose; white flowers, pine tree, green apple and lots of citrus. It is intense yet refreshing. Zesty and energetic back palate. (FC)
12.5%
Drink 2016-2019
85% Hondarribi Zuri, the rest a blend of Riesling and Mune Mahatsa. Free-run juice from selected grapes is used to produce this Txakoli. Vineyards are at 200 m above sea level. Moderate production up to 20,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. The wine is quite attractive on the nose; white flowers, pine tree, green apple and lots of citrus. It is intense yet refreshing. Zesty and energetic back palate. (FC)
12.5%
Drink 2016-2019
WHITE WINES KEPT ON THEIR LEES
• Merrutxu 2016 Bizkaiko Txakolina 16 /20
Mainly Hondarribi Zuri (85%) and a percentage of Riesling and Chardonnay. Vineyards are located at 80 m elevation in Ibarrangelu, within Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve, western exposure. Aged on its lees for 4 months. Production limited to 15,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. Quite seductive on the nose showing chamomile, honeysuckle, ripe apple and quince. It is refreshing but creamy on the palate. It has vibrant and lingering acidity with touch of toast at the back palate. Very mellow and well made. A serious Txakoli wine. (FC)
11.5%
Drink 2016-2020
Mainly Hondarribi Zuri (85%) and a percentage of Riesling and Chardonnay. Vineyards are located at 80 m elevation in Ibarrangelu, within Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve, western exposure. Aged on its lees for 4 months. Production limited to 15,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. Quite seductive on the nose showing chamomile, honeysuckle, ripe apple and quince. It is refreshing but creamy on the palate. It has vibrant and lingering acidity with touch of toast at the back palate. Very mellow and well made. A serious Txakoli wine. (FC)
11.5%
Drink 2016-2020
• Garena 2016 Bizkaiko Txakolina 15,5 /20
80% Hondarribi Zerratia and 20% Hondarribi Zuri from a single vineyard at 260 m elevation, facing south. Each variety is vinified separately in Bodega Gorka Izagirre. A percentage is aged on lees.
Tasted blind. It is a clean and refreshing wine showing grass and leafy character. It is very extreme on acidity and has a touch of ripe quince flavours on the palate. The finish is slightly austere and bitter. Robust Txakoli style. (FC)
12.5%
Drink 2016-2020
80% Hondarribi Zerratia and 20% Hondarribi Zuri from a single vineyard at 260 m elevation, facing south. Each variety is vinified separately in Bodega Gorka Izagirre. A percentage is aged on lees.
Tasted blind. It is a clean and refreshing wine showing grass and leafy character. It is very extreme on acidity and has a touch of ripe quince flavours on the palate. The finish is slightly austere and bitter. Robust Txakoli style. (FC)
12.5%
Drink 2016-2020
• Itsasmendi, No 7 2014 Bizkaiko Txakolina 17,5 /20
In 1989, a group of winemakers decided to return to viticulture, this was the beginning of a great dream. Starting with a small production in the municipality of Muskiz, the winery moved to Gernika, in the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve. ‘Itsasmendi’ means sea and mountain in the Basque language; with respectful work, they imprint such character to their wines. The first bottles of Itsasmendi 7 were produced in 2003. 45% Hondarribi Zuri, 39% Hondarribi Zerratia and 16% Riesling from different plots. Grapes are carefully selected. Matured on its lees for several months in stainless steel. In magnum.
Tasted blind. This wine suggests a promising future for the wines of Bizkaiko Txakolina. Beautiful and delicate nose showing petrol, chamomile, elderflower, apricot and stony character. It has zesty acidity but the overall palate is mellow. Very delicate and supple. Long and intense, it is one of the best Txakolis I have ever tasted. (FC)
14%
Drink 2016-2021
In 1989, a group of winemakers decided to return to viticulture, this was the beginning of a great dream. Starting with a small production in the municipality of Muskiz, the winery moved to Gernika, in the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve. ‘Itsasmendi’ means sea and mountain in the Basque language; with respectful work, they imprint such character to their wines. The first bottles of Itsasmendi 7 were produced in 2003. 45% Hondarribi Zuri, 39% Hondarribi Zerratia and 16% Riesling from different plots. Grapes are carefully selected. Matured on its lees for several months in stainless steel. In magnum.
Tasted blind. This wine suggests a promising future for the wines of Bizkaiko Txakolina. Beautiful and delicate nose showing petrol, chamomile, elderflower, apricot and stony character. It has zesty acidity but the overall palate is mellow. Very delicate and supple. Long and intense, it is one of the best Txakolis I have ever tasted. (FC)
14%
Drink 2016-2021
• Itsasmendi, No 7 2015 Bizkaiko Txakolina 17 /20
The first Itsasmendi 7 was produced in 2003. 45% Hondarribi Zuri, 39% Hondarribi Zerratia and 16% Riesling from different plots. Grapes are carefully selected. Matured on its lees for several months in stainless-steel tanks. In magnum.
Tasted blind. The wine has an extra complexity and intensity compared with the average Txakoli. It is intense, green but still mellow, with a very good delineation and depth. It is very herbal showing fennel, grass and ripe green fruit. It lingers with a lovely texture and salty sensation. Notable Txakoli. (FC)
14%
Drink 2016-2021
The first Itsasmendi 7 was produced in 2003. 45% Hondarribi Zuri, 39% Hondarribi Zerratia and 16% Riesling from different plots. Grapes are carefully selected. Matured on its lees for several months in stainless-steel tanks. In magnum.
Tasted blind. The wine has an extra complexity and intensity compared with the average Txakoli. It is intense, green but still mellow, with a very good delineation and depth. It is very herbal showing fennel, grass and ripe green fruit. It lingers with a lovely texture and salty sensation. Notable Txakoli. (FC)
14%
Drink 2016-2021
• Gorka Izagirre, G22 2015 Bizkaiko Txakolina 17 /20
Winery started in 2005 by Michelin-starred chef Eneko Atxa and his uncle Gorka Izagirre with the aim of bringing together gastronomy and Basque wine-growing traditions – and they successfully achieved it. G22 is a 100% varietal of Hondarribi Zerratia. Around 15-year-old vineyards are planted in Larrabetzu municipality at a density of 3,300 vine/ha and yielding around 6,500 kg/ha. Fermentation is carried out in stainless-steel tanks with a further 6–9 months’ ageing on lees. Production of 50,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. Great nose! It shows appealing mature aromas such as toast, ripe quince, dried flowers and honeysuckle. The palate is mellow and rich, with cutting and integrated refreshing acidity. The palate is vertical and lingering. It is a really classy white wine. (FC)
13%
Drink 2016-2020
Winery started in 2005 by Michelin-starred chef Eneko Atxa and his uncle Gorka Izagirre with the aim of bringing together gastronomy and Basque wine-growing traditions – and they successfully achieved it. G22 is a 100% varietal of Hondarribi Zerratia. Around 15-year-old vineyards are planted in Larrabetzu municipality at a density of 3,300 vine/ha and yielding around 6,500 kg/ha. Fermentation is carried out in stainless-steel tanks with a further 6–9 months’ ageing on lees. Production of 50,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. Great nose! It shows appealing mature aromas such as toast, ripe quince, dried flowers and honeysuckle. The palate is mellow and rich, with cutting and integrated refreshing acidity. The palate is vertical and lingering. It is a really classy white wine. (FC)
13%
Drink 2016-2020
• Berroja 2015 Bizkaiko Txakolina 16 /20
85% Hondarribi Zuri and 15% Riesling. Vineyards are located at 200 m elevation in Muxika within the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve on south-west-facing slopes. Hand-harvested grapes are vinified separately in stainless-steel tanks, prior to 8 months’ ageing on lees. Filtered. Integrated Production (IP) certified. Production limited to 10,000 bottles.
Tasted blind.This is a very intense wine showing candied lemon, green apple and herbal notes. The palate is creamy and tight, with well-defined fruit and a vivid saltiness. A lovely, not too complex and archetypal Bizkaiko Txakolina. (FC)
12%
Drink 2016-2020
85% Hondarribi Zuri and 15% Riesling. Vineyards are located at 200 m elevation in Muxika within the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve on south-west-facing slopes. Hand-harvested grapes are vinified separately in stainless-steel tanks, prior to 8 months’ ageing on lees. Filtered. Integrated Production (IP) certified. Production limited to 10,000 bottles.
Tasted blind.This is a very intense wine showing candied lemon, green apple and herbal notes. The palate is creamy and tight, with well-defined fruit and a vivid saltiness. A lovely, not too complex and archetypal Bizkaiko Txakolina. (FC)
12%
Drink 2016-2020
• Berroja 2014 Bizkaiko Txakolina 16 /20
85% Hondarribi Zuri and 15% Riesling. Vineyards are located at 200 m elevation in Muxika within the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve, on south-west-facing slopes. Hand-harvested grapes are vinified separately in stainless-steel tanks, prior to 8 months’ ageing on lees. Filtered. Integrated Production (IP) certified. Production limited to 10,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. The wine has a little bit of everything: freshness, clean aromas, touch of yeast, and touch of white flowers. It is remarkable and nicely made. On the palate is has penetrating, sharp acidity but it still keeps its shape. Light and vibrant. (FC)
12%
Drink 2016-2020
85% Hondarribi Zuri and 15% Riesling. Vineyards are located at 200 m elevation in Muxika within the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve, on south-west-facing slopes. Hand-harvested grapes are vinified separately in stainless-steel tanks, prior to 8 months’ ageing on lees. Filtered. Integrated Production (IP) certified. Production limited to 10,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. The wine has a little bit of everything: freshness, clean aromas, touch of yeast, and touch of white flowers. It is remarkable and nicely made. On the palate is has penetrating, sharp acidity but it still keeps its shape. Light and vibrant. (FC)
12%
Drink 2016-2020
• Doniene Gorrondona, Doniene 2015 Bizkaiko Txakolina 15,5 /20
85% Hondarribi Zuri and 15% Riesling. Vines are at 25 m above sea level in Bakio municipality, facing south-west. Moderate production of 40,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. This is a very green and citrusy wine. The lees character is not obvious and the wine is driven by green fruit flavours. It is refreshing and easy-going. Correctly made and pure Txakoli. (FC)
13%
Drink 2016-2019
85% Hondarribi Zuri and 15% Riesling. Vines are at 25 m above sea level in Bakio municipality, facing south-west. Moderate production of 40,000 bottles.
Tasted blind. This is a very green and citrusy wine. The lees character is not obvious and the wine is driven by green fruit flavours. It is refreshing and easy-going. Correctly made and pure Txakoli. (FC)
13%
Drink 2016-2019
OAKED WHITE WINES
• Doniene Gorrondona, Ondarea 2015 Bizkaiko Txakolina 15 /20
100% Hand-harvested Hondarribi Zuri grapes. Cryomaceration prior to non-pressing process to obtain free-run juice. Fermentation is carried out with indigenous yeasts in new, light-toasted French oak barrels. Aged on lees for 4 months.
Tasted blind. The wine is dominated by oak aromas, it displays toast, sweet spices and ripe green fruit. The palate is light and the oak is slightly overwhelming. I like the delineation of the wine, and I would love to taste the wine with a bit less oak. (FC)
13%
Drink 2016-2020
100% Hand-harvested Hondarribi Zuri grapes. Cryomaceration prior to non-pressing process to obtain free-run juice. Fermentation is carried out with indigenous yeasts in new, light-toasted French oak barrels. Aged on lees for 4 months.
Tasted blind. The wine is dominated by oak aromas, it displays toast, sweet spices and ripe green fruit. The palate is light and the oak is slightly overwhelming. I like the delineation of the wine, and I would love to taste the wine with a bit less oak. (FC)
13%
Drink 2016-2020
• Doniene Gorrondona, Ondarea 2014 Bizkaiko Txakolina 15,5 /20
100% Hand-harvested Hondarribi Zuri grapes. Cryomaceration prior to non-pressing process to obtain free-run juice. Fermentation is carried out with indigenous yeasts in new, light-toasted French oak barrels. Aged on lees for 4 months.
Tasted blind. The oak is very well integrated and the wine shows unpretentious aromas of green apple and citrus. The wine is tight and driven by penetrating acidity. It is well made but has not much extract. Very good oak use and winemaking standards. (FC)
13.5%
Drink 2015-2020
100% Hand-harvested Hondarribi Zuri grapes. Cryomaceration prior to non-pressing process to obtain free-run juice. Fermentation is carried out with indigenous yeasts in new, light-toasted French oak barrels. Aged on lees for 4 months.
Tasted blind. The oak is very well integrated and the wine shows unpretentious aromas of green apple and citrus. The wine is tight and driven by penetrating acidity. It is well made but has not much extract. Very good oak use and winemaking standards. (FC)
13.5%
Drink 2015-2020
• Gorka Izagirre, 42 by Eneko Atxa 2015 Bizkaiko Txakolina 16 /20
100% Hondarribi Zerratia. With a planting density of 3,300 vines/ha, it yields around 6,000 kg/ha. Fermented in 5,000-litre wooden vats with subsequent ageing on lees.
Tasted blind. Very intense oaky sensation showing popcorn, toast and a touch of smoke. The fruit character is appreciable underneath the toast. It is an intense and tight wine with creamy texture and cutting acidity. Slightly bitter and rigid at the back palate. Quite pleasurable despite the oak charge. (FC)
13%
Drink 2016-2018
100% Hondarribi Zerratia. With a planting density of 3,300 vines/ha, it yields around 6,000 kg/ha. Fermented in 5,000-litre wooden vats with subsequent ageing on lees.
Tasted blind. Very intense oaky sensation showing popcorn, toast and a touch of smoke. The fruit character is appreciable underneath the toast. It is an intense and tight wine with creamy texture and cutting acidity. Slightly bitter and rigid at the back palate. Quite pleasurable despite the oak charge. (FC)
13%
Drink 2016-2018
• Gorka Izagirre, 42 by Eneko Atxa 2014 Bizkaiko Txakolina 17 /20
100% Hondarribi Zerratia. With a planting density of 3,300 vines/ha, it yields around 6,000 kg/ha. Fermentation in new French 225-litre oak barriques, with a further 3 months’ ageing on lees.
Tasted blind. Very good use of oak for this green, vivid and electrifying wine. The wine is sharp but still very well delineated. Very youthful despite its age. It is herbal, citrusy with just a touch of well-placed oak. A noteworthy Txakoli – I would love to see more Txakoli like this. (FC)
13%
Drink 2015-2020
100% Hondarribi Zerratia. With a planting density of 3,300 vines/ha, it yields around 6,000 kg/ha. Fermentation in new French 225-litre oak barriques, with a further 3 months’ ageing on lees.
Tasted blind. Very good use of oak for this green, vivid and electrifying wine. The wine is sharp but still very well delineated. Very youthful despite its age. It is herbal, citrusy with just a touch of well-placed oak. A noteworthy Txakoli – I would love to see more Txakoli like this. (FC)
13%
Drink 2015-2020
• Magalarte Lezama, Fermentado en Barrica 2016 Bizkaiko Txakolina 15,5 /20
80% Hondarribi Zuri and 20% Petit Manseng. Fermented in new French oak barrels followed by 5 months’ maturation on lees, stirring is done. Ageing completed in stainless-steel tanks.
Tasted blind. Quite rich and creamy for a Txakoli wine and reinforced by a correct use of oak. Not particularly aromatic with a touch of toast and baked apple. Well made, everything makes sense although it is not really complex or deep. (FC)
13%
Drink 2016-2019
80% Hondarribi Zuri and 20% Petit Manseng. Fermented in new French oak barrels followed by 5 months’ maturation on lees, stirring is done. Ageing completed in stainless-steel tanks.
Tasted blind. Quite rich and creamy for a Txakoli wine and reinforced by a correct use of oak. Not particularly aromatic with a touch of toast and baked apple. Well made, everything makes sense although it is not really complex or deep. (FC)
13%
Drink 2016-2019
• Magalarte Lezama, Fermentado en Barrica 2015 Bizkaiko Txakolina 15 /20
A blend of 80% Hondarribi Zuri and 20% Petit Manseng fermented in new French oak barrels. Matured on lees for 5 months, it finishes ageing in stainless-steel tanks.
Tasted blind. The wine is dominated by oxidative notes, candied lemon and touch of sherry. It would love to taste it with less oxidative character, as I am unsure of its ageing capacity. (FC)
13%
Drink 2016-2018
A blend of 80% Hondarribi Zuri and 20% Petit Manseng fermented in new French oak barrels. Matured on lees for 5 months, it finishes ageing in stainless-steel tanks.
Tasted blind. The wine is dominated by oxidative notes, candied lemon and touch of sherry. It would love to taste it with less oxidative character, as I am unsure of its ageing capacity. (FC)
13%
Drink 2016-2018
• Itsasmendi, Artizar 2013 Bizkaiko Txakolina 16 /20
Hondarribi Zuri. Vines grown on clay-rich rocky soils with presence of marl limestone. Must was fermented in 2,000-litre French oak vats, with a subsequent 7 months’ ageing on its lees.
Tasted blind. The wine has well-judged oak, not exaggerated but intense. The oak contributes to an extra concentration but is not too obvious. It is savoury on the palate, chalky, with enough concentration and length. It has an attractive candied lemon touch and mineral expression at the back palate. (FC)
13.5%
Drink 2015-2020
Hondarribi Zuri. Vines grown on clay-rich rocky soils with presence of marl limestone. Must was fermented in 2,000-litre French oak vats, with a subsequent 7 months’ ageing on its lees.
Tasted blind. The wine has well-judged oak, not exaggerated but intense. The oak contributes to an extra concentration but is not too obvious. It is savoury on the palate, chalky, with enough concentration and length. It has an attractive candied lemon touch and mineral expression at the back palate. (FC)
13.5%
Drink 2015-2020
• Itsasmendi, Artizar 2012 Bizkaiko Txakolina 17 /20
Hondarribi Zuri. Vines grow on clay-rich rocky soils with presence of marl limestone. Fermented in 2,000-litre French oak vats, prior to 7 months’ ageing on its lees.
Tasted blind. This wine is one of the top oaky wines within the region, it has a brilliant evolution. The palate is vibrant and full of citrus, baked apple and ripe quince. It also displays a superb chalky and stony sensation. It is intense, concentrated and still refreshing. Very well made with a surprising evolution. (FC)
13.5%
Drink 2014-2020
Hondarribi Zuri. Vines grow on clay-rich rocky soils with presence of marl limestone. Fermented in 2,000-litre French oak vats, prior to 7 months’ ageing on its lees.
Tasted blind. This wine is one of the top oaky wines within the region, it has a brilliant evolution. The palate is vibrant and full of citrus, baked apple and ripe quince. It also displays a superb chalky and stony sensation. It is intense, concentrated and still refreshing. Very well made with a surprising evolution. (FC)
13.5%
Drink 2014-2020
RED WINES
• Erdikoetxe 2016 Bizkaiko Txakolina 15 /20
100% Hondarribi Beltza. Vineyards are at 60 m above sea level in Lezama municipality. Production limited to 800 bottles.
Tasted blind. It is quite wild on the nose showing pungent spices, wild berries and a leafy character. The wine is very refreshing with little tannins but it is dominated by bitterness at the back palate. Very representative of cool-climate place. I would love to see an evolution of this wine towards refinement. (FC)
12.5%
Drink 2017-2020
• ADOS Basarte, Dona 2016 Bizkaiko Txakolina 14,5 /20
Varietal of Hondarribi Beltza; vines planted in Bakio municipality at 20 m elevation, southern exposure. Limited production of 800 bottles.
Tasted blind. Very sweet red fruit and obvious toasty sensation. The acidity is really marked and makes the wine taste a bit hollow. The flavours are unripe red fruits. Not sure about its ageing capacity. (FC)
13%
Drink 2017-2018
Varietal of Hondarribi Beltza; vines planted in Bakio municipality at 20 m elevation, southern exposure. Limited production of 800 bottles.
Tasted blind. Very sweet red fruit and obvious toasty sensation. The acidity is really marked and makes the wine taste a bit hollow. The flavours are unripe red fruits. Not sure about its ageing capacity. (FC)
13%
Drink 2017-2018
• Itsasmendi, Eklipse 2014 Vino de España 16 /20
75% Pinot Noir and 25% Hondarribi Beltza. Research and development project supported by Bizkaia District Council and the Bizkaiko Txakolina appellation, currently outside of the DO regulations. Over 20-year-old vineyards grown on clay-loamy soils of limestone origin in Biscayan coast and Muskiz municipality. Low rainfall due to the proximity of the Cantabrian Sea gives a special environment to the vines.
Tasted blind. The wine is nicely made, very delicate and aromatic. It shows wild berries, herbal character and a touch of tobacco. It has an aerial texture with a very light and delicate tannin. It is a cool-climate red wine with marked acidity but well delineated. The back palate is a bit rustic but the overall sensation is pleasurable. Lovely delicacy. (FC)
14%
Drink 2014-2022
75% Pinot Noir and 25% Hondarribi Beltza. Research and development project supported by Bizkaia District Council and the Bizkaiko Txakolina appellation, currently outside of the DO regulations. Over 20-year-old vineyards grown on clay-loamy soils of limestone origin in Biscayan coast and Muskiz municipality. Low rainfall due to the proximity of the Cantabrian Sea gives a special environment to the vines.
Tasted blind. The wine is nicely made, very delicate and aromatic. It shows wild berries, herbal character and a touch of tobacco. It has an aerial texture with a very light and delicate tannin. It is a cool-climate red wine with marked acidity but well delineated. The back palate is a bit rustic but the overall sensation is pleasurable. Lovely delicacy. (FC)
14%
Drink 2014-2022
SWEET WINE
• Itsasmendi, Urezti 2014 Bizkaiko Txakolina 16,5 / 20
Mainly Hondarribi Zerratia and a small percentage of Izkiriot Haundi. In 2001 this became the first late-harvest wine protected by Bizkaiko Txakolina appellation. Short time in 225-litre barrels of new French oak.
Tasted blind. The wine has a superb combination between sweetness and acidity. Lots of citrus aromas, candied citrus, caramel, baked apple. It has such a lovely and penetrating nose. The sensation on the palate is of a candied lemon. Sweet but not cloying. Outstanding taste. I would love to see more of those in Txakoli. (FC)
12.5%
Drink 2014-2020
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